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GIVE IT A REST! Testing The SEB Rifle Rest & SEB Rear Bag By Mark Trope
SEB coaxial rifle rest There is something about finely crafted equipment; be it an automobile, watch, gun, computer, etc. Such items simply get my blood stirring! So it was when I decided that I wanted a top quality, no compromise, front rifle rest and rear sand bag.
A stack of sand bags, a common initial “rest” For most of us, the initial front pedestal and rear bag we use to support a rifle from the bench are simple cloth bags filled with coarse-grain sand. For casual sighting in and informal shooting, those cloth bags aren’t too bad. Provided they are stacked appropriately, and in the right place, one can get a rifle sighted in and have lots of fun. Attempts at the most accurate shooting, or competition of any sort requires equipment of a more serious nature. The most basic commercial front rests are plastic and not adjustable. In reality, they are little better, and in some cases, perhaps not even as good as that carefully stacked group of cloth sandbags! From there, plastic models with coarse elevation adjustment and some type of bag atop the rest are available. Next up are basic metal pedestal rests. Basic metal pedestal rests have a rather small footprint, and plenty of slop in the elevation adjustment. They rarely hold in one place for long before loosening up! After that, there are some metal pedestal rests with a somewhat decent footprint, and they have an elevation adjustment that will hold fairly well. Such rests lack windage capability, and are usually light due to an aluminum base. Sandbagging the legs of a light rest helps. Getting into serious equipment adds windage capability, additional weight, a more stable footprint, a front stop, and fine adjustments. All traditional type rests require turning at least two or even three knobs or wheels to get windage and elevation set. Then, locking handles must be engaged once the windage and elevation adjustments are made. Of course, before any additional windage and elevation adjustments can be made, the lock handles must be un-locked again. Once new adjustments are made, DON’T forget to turn the lock handles in, or your shots will go wide! Some accessory companies sell aftermarket “Speed Screws” or “Lifter Cam” devices that can be retrofitted to popular, 3-leg type pedestals. These devices allow one to shift between two predetermined vertical (upper and lower) points without the unlocking, knob twisting, locking routine when shooting certain types of standard, multiple bull targets, (usually 50 yard targets). High quality, traditional type rests, once all set up and locked down, work very well. Of course, get a switchy cross wind going, and its back to the re-adjustment routine. Trying to move quickly back to a sighter target to dope out that rogue wind that just came up can be a project with a traditional type rest, especially if the clock is running short of time! Here’s what would be really great: a high quality rest that once set up requires only ONE simple, fingertip movement to shift bullet point of impact (POI) left & right, up & down. Let’s also add that we want to do it without having to un-lock and re-lock anything. Since we are at it, let’s throw this in: it should be made of rustproof materials (not plastic), and have extremely tight tolerances. And, because it’s all best quality, it needs to be polished and painted to the nth degree! Sound like a tall order? It is a tall order, but it’s a reality! The answer is a coaxial type rest. Once primary adjustments are made, a joystick handles the rest. Push the joystick left or right, the rest top moves in that direction. Push the joystick up or down, the rest top follows suite, it’s that simple. There are several coaxial type rests on the market now. Let’s look at the features they most commonly share.
I did quite a bit of reading about coaxial rests. I also examined a couple of different brands before I made a decision as to which one I would purchase. My criterion was this: There would be NO compromises. I was going to have the very best coaxial rest with the very best features. That made the choice simple. The only coaxial rest that has all the best features stated above, and much more, is the SEB Coaxial Rest. http://www.sebcoax.com (Note.1). The SEB rest is the design of a gentleman from Indonesia, Sebastian Lambang. Simply stated: Sebastian set out to design & build the very best, period. He has succeeded! Sebastian has only the best men working in his facility. He personally checks the tolerances of the critical parts on each and every rest. Let’s take a look at the SEB, and see what features set it apart from the pack (Note.2).
No problem with the SEB being too light, or the footprint being too small. The copper & black hammertone finish is sexy! (Gun is my CMP (US Military) Winchester 52D, note how low the rest is adjusted for this rifle) As stated, the SEB rest is a coaxial design, however, it has several unique features that no other coaxial rest has. There is no issue with the SEB rest being too light. The SEB rest weights 21.3 lb before adding the front bag! The base is a massive piece of aluminum, 12 ½” X 15” X 1-1/4” thick. The base is powder coated. The standard finish is black & silver hammertone. The finish is durable and stylish. For a few dollars extra, different color bases are sometimes available. Sebastian usually sends a few extra bases to the paint shop that does the black & silver powder coating. If the paint shop is going to do a big job in other colors for a different contract, they will also do a base or two in that color for Sebastian. Ernie (Note.1) will have to see what colors arrive in a shipment. Ernie will often get a copper & black or a green & black in the shipment along with the regular black & silver based rests. I got lucky when I placed my order. I wanted a copper & black base, and there was just one copper & black in that shipment. Ain’t it purty?
There are 3 adjustment legs, each has a hardened, pointed tip (The light color bowed tube at the back of the rest is a carrying handle!) The 3 adjustment legs have sufficient length for just about any rifle off the bench. Note how the knobs and lock nuts are polished & knurled. Hardened & pointed tips are inserted into the bottom of the adjustment legs. The adjustment legs turn without binding or any excessive play.
Built-in level for when you are adjusting legs (This level is for left & right leveling) A level is incorporated in the coaxial unit. The level will allow you to compensate for uneven benches when adjusting the rest legs. Get the bubble centered; and you can be sure the rest is level from left to right, regardless of how uneven the bench is!
For front to back leveling, a simple level is used (This level is laid on the rest, once front to back leveling is done, it’s removed) I carry an old, cheap level to make sure the rest is leveled from front to back. Once the rear legs are adjusted (level from left to right), then I lay the level on the rest and adjust the front leg to level it from front to back.
There are 3 turret lock bolts (this is the front one), loosen them, and the entire stainless steel turret can be rotated
The 2 rear turret lock bolts, and the turret can be seen here Most rests require the rest face the target straight on. That’s fine, provided the shape of the bench and the shape of the shooters body get along! In some cases, it is advantages to have the base at an angle. That could only be accomplished with a pivoting feature, where the coaxial unit could remain straight on to the target, but the base positioned at any angle the shooter desires, and yes, the SEB rest has this feature. Just loosen the 3 turret lock bolts, and the entire stainless steel turret can be rotated to any angle!
The large, knurled mariner wheel sets primary elevation
After setting primary elevation with the mariner’s wheel, two lock knobs are tightened. After setting primary elevation with the mariner’s wheel, two lock knobs are tightened. There are 4 threaded holes for the two lock knobs, 2 in back and 2 in front. Place the two lock knobs wherever is most convenient for you. I placed one in front, and one in back.
SEB has twin left & right posts for rock-solid steadiness Recall we said most coaxial rests only have one vertical post? That means the coaxial unit has to hang out to one side. That may not necessarily be a bad thing, but if the coaxial unit’s attachment to the post has even the slightest bit of play; there will be flexing of the coaxial unit when the rifle is fired. The SEB rest has dual posts or columns for the coaxial unit to ride on. There is no play. The movement is smooth and sure.
The handle attaches with 3 thumbscrews The heart of the SEB rest is the coaxial unit. Attach the joystick with 3 thumbscrews to the post. Nothing to lock or unlock, no knob twisting, etc, just move the joystick left or right, or up and down, and the coaxial unit obediently moves exactly the same as the joystick. Need to run back to the sighter to check out a wind shift? Just move the joystick, it’s that simple. The joystick movement is a smooth gliding action.
The joystick has a good size round knob
The front of the coaxial unit also has a joystick attaching post! Recall we said the turret allows the coaxial unit to be rotated to any position in relation to the base? We also said the coaxial unit moves in the same direction as the joystick. OK, suppose a shooter wishes the coaxial unit to move in the opposite direction of joystick movement. With any other brand of coaxial rest, the shooter would be out of luck. With the SEB rest, loosen the 3 turret lock bolts, rotate the turret 180º, and tighten the 3 turret lock bolts. Next, exchange the front and rear plates of the bag containment box with the included Allen wrench. Lastly, switch the joystick to the post on what’s normally the front of the coaxial unit. Now, the coaxial unit moves in the opposite direction of joystick movement!
The tension on the coaxial unit can be adjusted with an optional kit The SEB comes with the tension of the coaxial unit set at the factory. However, some fellows may want more or less tension then the factory setting. Against that end, Ernie sells an optional kit that will allow one to dial in the exact tension desired. Once the kit is installed, simply loosen the locknuts as in the above photo, and use an Allen wrench in the center of the tension screw to make the adjustment as per the included instruction sheet. Ernie will give you current pricing on the tension screw kit. Ernie also plans on having extra-long threaded “legs” and “feet” available soon as an optional kit for those fellows using the SEB in F Class shoots.
Forearms stop has two adjustments
Notice forearm stop has 3 rubber “O” rings to protect end of stock The forearm stop has two adjustments. Loosen the hex nut in the middle, and the forearm stop can be raised and lowered. Loosen the black thumbscrew underneath, and the forearm stop can be slid back and forth. Loosen the wing nut, and the entire forearm stop and rod can be removed for those rifles with extra-long stocks.
Adjustable side plates allow one to tighten the front bag on a rifle forend SEB includes one front bag with the rest. Large, plastic knobs allow the side plates to be tightened on the front bag, so it conforms better to the forestock of a rifle. Either a 2-1/4 or a 3-inch width bag will be supplied. The bags are a combination of leather and a ballistic material that’s way slicker then Coudora™!
A narrow forend!
Even with the side plates tightened, the 2-1/4 inch SEB bag is too big for a Mil-Surp Romanian 1969’s slender forend As we said, SEB includes either a 2-1/4 or a 3-inch width bag (customer’s choice) with each rest. Even the 2-1/4-width bag is too wide for the forend of most Mil-Surp rifles. A narrow “sporter” bag is needed. SEB’s bags are the standard “Protector” style base size. So, it’s easy to use any make of standard front bag with a SEB rest. Let’s change the front bag to one that fits the Mil-Surp Romanian 1969. (I’m taking the plates completely off for photographic purposes only! It IS NOT necessary to do so for bag switching. The plates need only be loosened and Protector bags can be switched in a very few minutes!)
Removing the front and rear plates of the bag containment box Remove front and rear plates of the bag containment box with the included Allen wrench. Set the front and rear plates, and the two side plates aside for a moment. The front and rear plates do not need to be completely removed to change a bag (except the 4 bolts retaining a SEB-made bag). The front and rear plates can simply be loosened if a standard US-made bag is used. Once the plates are loosened; the bag flaps can be slid out.
Front plate removed, side plates will slide off(Note SEB bag has bolt holes in the flaps)
Front, rear and both side plates removed
A standard “Protector” base-size bag fits on the SEB rest (Bag saddle is narrow width for most Mil-Surp rifles or sporters)
Reinstalling the rear & front plates, and both side plates (This bag is Coudora™ material, leather works fine too)
Mil-Surp Romanian 1969 fits well in narrow saddle bag
Mil-Surp Romanian 1969 in SEB rest, SEB rear bag
Mil-Surp U.S. 1917 in SEB rest, SEB rear bag (Extra long barrel and forestock required forearm stop be unthreaded from rest)
Swiss Hämmerli match rifle in SEB rest, SEB rear bag (Notice position forearm stop has been adjusted) Now, let’s consider the rear sandbag. For best accuracy, a rear sandbag must lie flat on the bench. This requires a rear bag must have a good, stiff bottom, or a rubber “donut” to sit on. Bags with only one thickness of leather on the bottom tend to bow out when the bag is properly filled. If they are only filled part way, the rest of the bag will sag, and shots go wild. The photo above shows a popular bag. The owner filled it to capacity. Unfortunately, the construction is weak, and the bottom flimsy. This bag will rock back and forth with every shot. Also notice how the ears are bulged out at the sides. The leather is just too thin and weak. A person owning such a bag could spend an additional $25.00 and get a donut to reduce the rocking, but honestly, this bag’s just not worth the effort.
SEB rear bag as received, even empty it only sags a little! (SEB’s rear bag is called “BigFoot”, it lives up to its name!) Rear sandbags have a great effect on accuracy. Poorly constructed bags not only account for those vertical “mystery fliers”, but also, grouping ability is affected too. You know, where everything just seems right, but the shot unaccountably goes high or low. SEB’s rear bag, even when empty, hardly sagged at all! The leather is thick, plenty stiff and properly assembled. The ears are of a synthetic material that’s way slicker then Coudora™. The stitching is well executed and even.
In case a rifles pistol grip rides back during recoil, the SEB bag has a skid pad, a very nice touch
SEB rear bag has sufficient space between the ears for a Mil-Surp, target or sporting rifle. SEB rear bag also has a built in carry handle
No need to for an accessory donut, the bottom of the SEB IS a donut!
“Reptile Sand” can be acquired from any well-stocked pet store. It’s very fine, very heavy, and very dry, perfect for front & rear bags Bags must be filled with sand. Sand must be very dry, or the leather of the bag will rot from the inside out! Sand that is fine grain and heavy is always best. Several dealers that specialize in benchrest and target equipment sell special, heavy sand. However, “Reptile Sand” can be acquired from any well-stocked pet store. Reptile sand is very fine, quite heavy, and very dry. It’s just about perfect. Many fellows just buy a bag of “playground sand” from a mart-mart or home center to use as bag filler. Playground sand is OK, but playground sand is usually damp as received. First, spread it in a thin layer and dry it out. Besides, trying to get wet sand in a bag will cause you to use language best not said aloud in polite society!
Filling the SEB rear bag. Funnel came from a automotive store (Wood dowel rod for pushing sand can be seen at far right/center side of picture) When filling a rear bag, always fill the ears first! Each ear has its own fill spout. Make sure the ears are well and evenly filled. At regular intervals, remove the funnel, and insert a wood dowel rod or a long wood pencil into the bags fill spout to push the sand into the corners. After the ears are completely filled, do the main body. Again, pause at regular intervals, and push the sand into the corners with a wood dowel rod. It can take some time to properly fill the bag. It’s time well spent! Do the same with the front bag. Using the SEB front rest and rear bag is simply a pleasure! It’s amazing how fast you just forget about all the knob twisting, wheel spinning, unlocking & locking, etc. Just move the joystick, period! At the last match I attended, the Match Director commented to me later that he noticed that I was able to run a condition quickly, before the ever present, persnickety, West Texas wind could foul me up. That would be very hard to do with a traditional style rest. It occurred to me it would be good to have a proper container to store, and transport my rest and bag back & forth to the range. Take a look at what I came up with. It was arrived at quickly, simply, and at low cost.
Rubbermaid® ActionPacker® I decided I wanted a container that would hold the rest, rear bag and a few other goodies. I went to Wal-Mart and found this Rubbermaid® ActionPacker® in the automotive department. It would be perfect for my needs! It’s ridged, heavy gauge plastic, the top has positive locks, and one could even add padlocks if desired. All I would need to do is add a wood bottom so the hardened & pointed tips of the legs would not pierce the container.
This size is plenty big
Bottom insert is 3/8-inch chipboard. Rest’s legs fit in holes. I made a bottom insert from 3/8-inch chipboard. I attached a couple of pieces of cut 2X4 with holes for the rest legs to fit into. Wood screws attach the wood strips to the chipboard bottom. The holes in the wood strips are deep enough that the rest will not move. I left just enough room so the SEB BigFoot rear bag is contained, and won’t slide about.
SEB coaxial rifle rest and SEB rear bag, ready to travel (Black, flexible, foam rubber tubing holds joystick handle) The joystick handle needs to be removed to transport the rest (Note 3.). The joystick handle is stored in a piece of flexible, foam rubber tubing; the kind of tubing used to insulate pipes. Extra front sand bags can be laid on floor of storage container.
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